Tuesday, June 3, 2008

More Crazy in the Gunks

Well, after a goods nights sleep under the stars I was ready to take James and Meghan up Middle Earth. The one climb that I have yet to lead in its entirety, until today. It ended up being the first and only route we did that day. By far the longest I've taken to complete a three pitch route (five hours, whoa!). Anyway, I cruised up the first pitch with one rope trailing. When I finished the first pitch I set up my anchor and ATC guide to belay the two of them at the same time. James started up the route first with Meghan close behind.

It seems that James didn't learn his lesson the first time because once again his knees and legs took a beating, and he left some bloody rental shoes behind to prove it. After completing the first pitch, I set off for pitch number two, which was a 5.2 that I almost didn't place any gear. I did eventually clip into a tri-cam that was welded into a crack and slung one tree. That was it for 50 ft. James and Meghan didn't have any problems with it either. Now pitch three.... That was a little different story. It was a short pitch as well, except 15 feet up was a roof that you have to reach over and pull yourself through. By far the section the two of them struggled with the most. James made an attempt at the roof first with no luck. Meghan told him to take a break and regain some of your strength while I try it. She tried and conquered. So while James made another go at it Meghan was off exploring the top of the cliff. Taking pictures of inch worms and caterpillar nests and nature stuff.


In the words of an unknown climber, "if you don't drop a couple F bombs your not really climbing." Than all I have to say is James was the hardest climber at the crag that day, and everyone knew it.

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